The Transition of the Theives

In the toniest part of Toronto five stores for decades have provided the pantry staples, bread & cheese, seafood, meats, fruits & vegetables and pastries (which are a staple in my house). The stores, affectionately (or not) called the Five Thieves were an institution. They were staffed by quirky characters who stuck around for years (actual butchers sold meat) and owned by operators who were deeply invested in the operations of the store – often found mopping or stocking. Regulars were known by name, and by cuisine types. The stores themselves were a bit of a muddle; all old wood counters and hidden corners. It was elitist and expensive but everything tasted amazing and everyone had a relationship with everyone else. I unabashedly, and without irony, loved those five stores. I worked for years in All The Best Fines Foods (the cheese and bread store) mooned over the perfect produce at Harvest wagon, begged the butcher for bacon on post indulgence mornings and saved all my grocery money to buy oysters at Pisces. So take whatever I write about the current state with a grain of salt; I am by no means an unbiased observer.

I have problems addressing the current state of The Five Thieves; while they are all individually alive and kicking the changes that have occurred in the last two years have indelibly changed, to me at least, the texture of the space. And some of that may not be a bad thing – the stores were spatially a mess, inaccessible to the differently abled and working off the electrical infrastructure of a bygone era. Change probably needed to happen one way or another and two years ago it happened in a big way. The stores, one by one, moved into portable trailers while the spaces underwent massive overhauling. One store Patichou, jumped the boat early to avoid the construction and moved across the street. The rest dutifully transplanted into their charmless temporary digs until their space, new and shiny, was complete. The once quaint and cozy block took on the air of an overcrowded construction zone.

Halfway through that process is where we currently are and that is the reason for this moderate angst session. From what has been completed the general gist can felt of the ‘new and improved’ Five Thieves and my general impression is, well, shiny. Lots of glass, loads of stainless steel and the industrial chic look is very strong. This wouldn’t be a negative quality in a new concept store but giving the charming old ladies such a dramatic facelift doesn’t seem to respect the bones of the original. Interlopers have also intruded into the club with a floral store adjacent to Olifes, the butcher (which was also sold to a new owner) and Montreal Bread Company taking the location formally owned by Patichou (bringing to mind the question of whether one block really needs multiple sellers of $9 sandwiches). Familiar faces are still around but the uniqueness of the establishments has been watered down.

All is not doom and gloom. Final decision must be rendered once final work is complete. I suppose I feel towards the stores much like anyone who goes back to a childhood haunt and finds that it no longer lines up with the pictures they hold in their mind. However The Five Thieves of old were more than their space – they were a small but lively community of food loving characters and eclectic and colourful customers. With any look the community will thrive again in its new shinier home.