Union Gets the Big Three

I’ve struggled to write about Union, the new kid on the Ossington block. For one thing almost everybody already has and in glowing praises. At The Post, Gina Mallet, who typically hates everything, loves it. Corey Mintz, generally a kinder softer soul, also rains down the accolades. And even Chris John over at the Globe (whom I really don’t pay attention to) gives the fledgling resto a solid thumbs up. Winning the praise of triad of Canadian media is no small feat; I think Claudio Aprile may have done it years ago with Colburne Lane but if memory serves Gina was a little more cranky and a lot less adoring (for the record I find an adoring Ms Mallet to be a little scary – it screws with the natural order of things). However done it has been and Chef/Owner Paul Teo not only pulled the hat trick with the critics he also created unheard of anticipation of through the use of his Blog detailing the tumultuous (and much delayed) birth of his baby. In fact, in light of the sheer volume of the press generated I Mr. Teo ever wants to get out of the culinary sphere I see a shining future for him in PR land.
So finding something new, something original, to say in the storm of words is tricky. If I had a contrary viewpoint, some disclaimer to rebut the written masses maybe it would be easier. Fact is, Union deserves its accolades. It is simple, clean with an interesting menu that is exceptional. Fully and completely the real deal. Better yet it has one of the rarest qualities in a Toronto eating establishment; a committed and knowledgeable staff. Never, outside of being served by the owner, have I had servers guide me through the menu, both food and wine, with such enthusiasm and care. And when The Banker couldn’t resist the oysters and added an impromptu third course the server actually beamed as she contemplated the wine he already was drinking (a lovely limey sauvignon) and the shellfish matching up. These are people who know their stuff and take great pains to ensure that the meal that you eat at their establishment is the most enjoyable it can be.
Not to mention that the food kicks ass. It’s neither cutting edge nor predictable, instead relying on thoughtful dishes with novel touches keep both the palate and the brain engaged. The starter, a cold melon and sweet pea soup starts all sweetness in the mouth with a granita consistency. Just when you’ve written it off as a decent palate cleanser the chili oil steps up, kicking the chilled mouth into overdrive. The silky scallop garnish lends substance and a pleasing contrast, all smoothness next to the courser soup. The main I chose (as did every other reviewer) was the ribs and pork belly. If it was up to me the ribs themselves would have been a more than sufficient dinner. These are grown up ribs with integrity and texture – while tender and delicious they fall off no bone. The flavours are not smokehouse sweet but rather evoke bistro, a tomato base with an herbaceous depth. The pork belly was the under achiever of the meal with little to say. It did not offend but by no means met the standard of its plate mate. Starches were served family style with traditional frites sharing space with smashed potatoes.
Union, with its service and food, is at least a two trick pony. Still a baby on the Toronto scene it should be interesting to see how it deals with the weight of expectations that are now foisted upon it. I imagine if Paul Teo has managed to get this far, he may still has a few aces up his sleeve.