Come East Young Man

The Toronto’s east side gains a little West coast flavor with the opening of the Lady Marmalade, a beloved Victoria brunch local that is trying the fickle Toronto trade. From the line out the door I think our city has provided a receptive welcome.

Bunch is tricky because it must appear simple. At no time do I want to be confused by the menu, servers should use short words and small sentences and loud noises are to be avoided (good rule of thumb for all dining rooms but particularly important for the early meals). At the same time it shouldn’t be boring (exception if the meal is occurring in a dinner variation). The Lady Marmalade wins, with interesting yet approachable fare (breakfast poutine anyone?) and bonus points for simple but lovely presentation.

Hourvos ranchos are common enough in Toronto but often underwhelming. The version I had was fresh and clean tasting with eggs that had been respected while cooking so the retained the texture of eggs not tires and fresh guacamole (sadly not much). The tomato sauce was well spiced and the whole wheat tortilla added a nice textural touch. The miso gravy on the poutine ordered for the table was a bit overwhelming when paired with an already salty aged cheddar (this is not to say the dish did not disappear quickly) – next time I’d like to try the hollandaise. The third sauce option, tomato orange cream, may be pushing the brunch envelope for me. It doesn’t work in my head and I am neither brave nor adventurous before coffee.

The second time around I went for the poached egg BLT with avocado and chipotle mayo and was reduced to silence. Again the egg had not been over cooked (why do so many places do that?) and the mayo was distinctly smoky, working well with thick cut, properly cooked (neither insipid or charred) bacon. Absolutely lovely.

Coffee, an important brunch measurement, was a good roast and refills were offered at suitable intervals even though the place obviously humming. Service in general was just right; wholesome looking and efficient with an easy grin but little need or time to chit chat. It fit into the overall feel of the place; with mismatched mugs, salt and pepper shakers that range from fire trucks to Santas and a chalk board for idle little ones to decorate, Lady Marmalade is laid back charm. This city would be lucky to receive more of this particular west coast migration.

Lady Marmalade

898 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON

647-351-7645