Peach pie can be very good. It’s a great fruit to turn into a pie; sweet enough that it doesn’t require additional sugar and while not heavy with pectin the texture of the fruit doesn’t require a lot of gel to set. Anyhow it’s in season right now making it plentiful and cheap. I say this not to promote the baking of pies; as readers will know it is neither a strength nor a joy of mine. It’s just that I had a really great slice yesterday and now have it stuck in my brain (I understand this sort of thing happens with other people and songs). The crust was okay– it did not excite nor offended. The interior though was velvet summer, flavourful and ripe. Garnished with rich Chantilly cream it was a truly superior dessert. Something that Jamie Kennedy’s new lunch spot Hanks seems to be familiar with.
The first visit to Hank’s was a pastry and tea affair. At 10:30 my troop of three easily beat the lunch rush and took full advantage of the minimal line making multiple trips to the counter to reload on sweets and caffeine. The pie was the winner – a dessert that hovers in one’s memory. The croissants were adequate, rich and buttery but not as flakey as I would like. Cookies aimed higher and in the case of the lemon ginger with good sized candied ginger bits, achieved. Macaroons fared less well with great taste but a tough texture. Double chocolate walnut cookie provided a nice moist crumb with a solid chocolate flavor (although I favour the Double Chocolate Espresso cookie and B Café for a similar, but better, take on the concept).
Returning for lunch we learn an important Hank rule – show up before 12:15. After that the eclectic lunch crowd fills up the joint, causing some significant linage. The lunch menu is small but sufficient. Soups and sandwich, each offered in full or half servings (a serious benefit for those of us that don’t have full dinner appetites at lunch). I go for the egg salad sandwich which is fine, but bland. Much better is the smoked turkey sandwich I promptly steal from The Banker, chock full of meat garnished with picked radish, sautéed green pepper and an herbed aioli. A serious sandwich. Soup is another highlight, a herbed squash with a light citrus note contrasting nicely with the rich sweetness of the squash. For $10 a head this is good value.
The service was adorably inept each time. By no means bad service and all intentions seem very good, but things just don’t go quite right. Drinks are spilled enroute and require a top off, sandwiches make a long a tortuous route though the space before finding their happy home at your table. All mistakes are remedied quickly with apologies and I imagine given time will dissipate. Even if they don’t I’ll take a good natured clumsy server over an efficient grump any day. The music was also a little off but in a very good way. One rarely hears Common and Nina Simone back to back.
http://hankstoronto.blogspot.com/
9 1/2 Church St.
Toronto, Ontario
(647) 288-0670
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